Hurricanes, Storms, and Your Landscape

As we are in the middle of hurricane season I am reposting an article I co-authored with my good friend Mark Torok from the Florida Forest Service (FFS) tackling the tough questions around tree care and storms.

Hurricanes, Storms, and Your Landscape

by

Mark Torok, FFS Senior Forester

Mark Williams, Treemendous Consulting Group

Living in Florida, sooner or later, given its history, your landscape is going to be exposed to high winds either from a hurricane, tornado or a storm. So what can be done to minimize wind damage in your Florida landscape?

 

For starters, have your existing trees inspected annually and/or structurally pruned by an ISA (International Society of Arboriculture) certified arborist who is also licensed and insured. To find an ISA certified arborist in your area, you can use the “Arborist Search” on the ISA website at http://www.isa-arbor.com/findanarborist/arboristsearch.aspx. Having your trees inspected annually (risk assessment) and structurally pruned every 2-5 years will help the trees become more wind-resistant by eliminating or minimizing structural defects such as cross branching, decay, codominant stems, deadwood and included bark in the trees.

 

If you are thinking about redoing and or enhancing your landscape, plant more wind resistant trees. Just like people, all trees are not the same; some are more wind-resistant than others. In general, trees species that are wind resistant are also good compartmentalizers. Good compartmentalizers are tree species that can recover well from wounds and that seal them off effectively preventing the spread of decay. Even trees that are in the same family can vary on how well they compartmentalize. For example, live oak trees are very wind resistant and great compartmentalizers while laurel oaks/water oaks are very poor compartmentalizers and not very wind resistant trees.

 

Another way to make your landscape more wind tolerant is planting trees in groups. In a natural forest setting, winds normally blow over a stand of trees instead of blowing through them unlike the total exposure faced by an individual, open-grown tree. Grouping trees together in tree islands/communal plantings simulates how trees grow naturally and mimics the buffering effect of trees within a natural forest community. But remember to use minimum tree spacing requirements which are typically planting trees at least 15-20 foot on center for tree species that develop large canopy crowns. In order for a tree to develop proper taper a certain amount of wind exposure is also necessary. Some examples of Florida native tree species that are often found growing in groups include slash pine, bald cypress, live oak and sabal palm.

 

Addressing any root defects that may be present before planting will also aid tree establishment and help ensure a well anchored root system.  Some additional information about tree root pruning is available at: (http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/roots.shtml). Remember to plant your tree slightly above grade, install the recommended bracing system and to remove any circling, plunging and girdling roots that are present. The use of Florida Grade No. 1 (Grading Standard for Nursery trees set by FDACS) or above rated trees is also recommended as these trees are of high quality with excellent structure. Trees of this grade typically have greater vigor, establish faster and are free of structural defects commonly present on poorer quality/lower grade trees. Some additional information on proper tree planting and bracing is available at: ( http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/planting2.shtml).

 

 

Here are some high wind resistant native south Florida trees:

 

Gumbo limbo              Green buttonwood     Geiger tree

White stopper             Redberry stopper        Spanish stopper

Lignum vitae                Dahoon holly                Krug’s holly

Black ironwood           Bald cypress                   Pond cypress

FL silver palm              Cabbage/Sabal palm   FL thatch palm

Key thatch palm          Myrtle oak                     Live oak

Sand live oak

Here are some medium-high wind resistant native south Florida trees:

 

Pond apple                    Satinleaf                        Royal palm

Pigeon plum                  Wild tamarind             Sweetbay magnolia

Mastic tree                    Paradise tree               West Indian mahogany

 

References

Duryea, M.L. 2008. Trees and Hurricanes. Website: http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/treesandhurricanes/index.shtml of the University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service. Gainesville, FL.

 

Gilman, E. 2005. Tree selection for landscapes. Website with 680 Tree Fact Sheets: http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/planting/TreeSelectionIntroduction.htm of the University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service. Gainesville, FL.

 

Crawford, P. 2005. Florida Gardening Series, Volume 3 – Stormscaping: Landscaping to Minimize Wind Damage in Florida. Color Garden Inc. Canton, GA. 168 pp.

Trees and Wildfires

Trees face many challenges including pressure from overdevelopment, climate change, exotic pests/diseases, storms etc.. One of the most noticeable environmental challenges is wildfire. Fires are often created in nature due to drought conditions and lightning strikes. Fires can also be caused indirectly from human activities and something as small as a flicked cigarette butt in the wrong place can cause a devastating fire.
While fires can be disruptive and dangerous certain species of trees have evolved to tolerate and in some cases require periodic fire events to reproduce and thrive. The US Forest Service along with many State forestry agencies routinely conduct controlled burns to help eliminate undergrowth and improve the health of forests. The National Forest Foundation further discusses how trees thrive and survive in fire prone areas.

Image used courtesy of Mike McMillan/Spotfire Images

Image used courtesy of the Government of Alberta

Vertical Forests

The typical urban environment includes many challenges for establishing a proper tree canopy. Limited space, utility and infrastructure conflicts, pollution, disease and inadequate root and canopy space are some of the more critical ones. These challenges have compelled Urban Foresters to seek out technology and outside the box thinking when it comes to finding places to plant trees. Silva cells, mounded planting, structural soil and use of the right tree in the right place has helped provide solutions for these challenges.
Recently architects and designers have found new places to start planting trees: on rooftops and within multi-story buildings. An article by Fast Company covers this latest trend. When dealing with an ever changing urban environment finding new places to plant trees should always be a priority as they provide a wealth of health and environmental benefits.

Image used courtesy of Fast Company

Image used courtesy of Inhabitat.com

 

Watering New Trees

To plant and establish new trees, there are many factors to consider. Proper planting depth, bracing, and slow release fertilization are all important aspects of this process; however, tree watering is the most essential.
 
Newly planted trees suffer from over or under watering all too often. Thankfully, technology has evolved to help rectify this problem. Tree bladders were created as a way to reduce labor costs for tree establishment, and to also ensure new trees are sufficiently watered. They slowly release water over time ensuring that the rootball of trees are watered evenly and at a steady rate, typically only requiring replenishment once or twice a week. This process promotes water conservation and sustainability by saving water and money. Tree bladders are also reusable, further increasing the can provide a potential for cost savings well beyond their initial use. To learn more about watering new trees and different types of tree bladders please see below:

 

Image Used Courtesy of Tree Gator©

 

Image Used Courtesy of Tree Gator©

Image Used Courtesy of TreeDiaper©

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep113

http://www.treegator.com/products/original/index.html

http://www.treegator.com/products/jrpro/index.html

https://www.treediaper.com/about-products.cfm



Hidden Post Hurricane Irma Impacts

Hurricane Irma caused substantial issues for our tree canopy. Torn limbs, toppled trees split trunks this damage is very visible and very apparent. Unfortunately, there was also a more hidden indirect impact. Florida's nurseries and plant farms took a substantial hit from the high winds and heavy rains. This will cause near and future issues as we try to replant lost/downed trees due to potential shortages of replacement trees. Hurricane Wilma in 2005 caused tree shortages that took 6 months to overcome. Hopefully, the industry can rebound sooner from the effects of Irma. I have also included several links to additional stories/articles pertaining to the effects of Hurricane Irma as it relates to the landscaping industry.

Photographs used courtesy of the FNGLA.

http://www.miamiherald.com/news/weather/hurricane/article173502081.html
http://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/news/2017/09/14/hurricane-irma-impact-floridas-nursery-landscape-industry-suffers-significant-loss/
http://www.lawnandlandscape.com/article/ll-091517-hurricane-irma-impacts-florida-landscapers-fngla/

http://www.orlandosentinel.com/news/politics/os-hurricane-irma-florida-agriculture-20170918-story.html

Hurricanes, Storms and Your Landscape

  Here is an article I co-authored with my good friend Mark Torok from the Florida Forest Service (FFS) tackling the tough questions around tree care and storms.

Hurricanes, Storms, and Your Landscape

by

Mark Torok, FFS Senior Forester

Mark Williams, Treemendous Consulting Group

Living in Florida, sooner or later, given its history, your landscape is going to be exposed to high winds either from a hurricane, tornado or a storm. So, what can be done to minimize wind damage in your Florida landscape?

 

For starters, have your existing trees inspected annually and/or structurally pruned by an ISA (International Society of Arboriculture) certified arborist who is also licensed and insured. To find an ISA certified arborist in your area, you can use the “Arborist Search” on the ISA website at http://www.isa-arbor.com/findanarborist/arboristsearch.aspx. Having your trees inspected annually (risk assessment) and structurally pruned every 2-5 years will help the trees become more wind-resistant by eliminating or minimizing structural defects such as cross branching, decay, codominant stems, deadwood and included bark in the trees.

 

If you are thinking about redoing and or enhancing your landscape, plant more wind resistant trees. Just like people, all trees are not the same; some are more wind-resistant than others. In general, trees species that are wind resistant are also good compartmentalizers. Good compartmentalizers are tree species that can recover well from wounds and that seal them off effectively preventing the spread of decay. Even trees that are in the same family can vary on how well they compartmentalize. For example, live oak trees are very wind resistant and great compartmentalizers while laurel oaks/water oaks are very poor compartmentalizers and not very wind resistant trees.

 

Another way to make your landscape more wind tolerant is planting trees in groups. In a natural forest setting, winds normally blow over a stand of trees instead of blowing through them unlike the total exposure faced by an individual, open-grown tree. Grouping trees together in tree islands/communal plantings simulates how trees grow naturally and mimics the buffering effect of trees within a natural forest community. But remember to use minimum tree spacing requirements which are typically planting trees at least 15-20 foot on center for tree species that develop large canopy crowns. In order for a tree to develop proper taper a certain amount of wind exposure is also necessary. Some examples of Florida native tree species that are often found growing in groups include slash pine, bald cypress, live oak and sabal palm.

 

Addressing any root defects that may be present before planting will also aid tree establishment and help ensure a well anchored root system.  Some additional information about tree root pruning is available at: (http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/roots.shtml). Remember to plant your tree slightly above grade, install the recommended bracing system and to remove any circling, plunging and girdling roots that are present. The use of Florida Grade No. 1 (Grading Standard for Nursery trees set by FDACS) or above rated trees is also recommended as these trees are of high quality with excellent structure. Trees of this grade typically have greater vigor, establish faster and are free of structural defects commonly present on poorer quality/lower grade trees. Some additional information on proper tree planting and bracing is available at: ( http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/planting2.shtml).

 

 

Here are some high wind resistant native south Florida trees:

 

Gumbo limbo              Green buttonwood     Geiger tree

White stopper             Redberry stopper        Spanish stopper

Lignum vitae                Dahoon holly                Krug’s holly

Black ironwood           Bald cypress                   Pond cypress

FL silver palm              Cabbage/Sabal palm   FL thatch palm

Key thatch palm          Myrtle oak                     Live oak

Sand live oak

Here are some medium-high wind resistant native south Florida trees:

 

Pond apple                    Satinleaf                        Royal palm

Pigeon plum                  Wild tamarind             Sweetbay magnolia

Mastic tree                    Paradise tree               West Indian mahogany

 

References

Duryea, M.L. 2008. Trees and Hurricanes. Website: http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/treesandhurricanes/index.shtml of the University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service. Gainesville, FL.

 

Gilman, E. 2005. Tree selection for landscapes. Website with 680 Tree Fact Sheets: http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/planting/TreeSelectionIntroduction.htm of the University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service. Gainesville, FL.

 

Crawford, P. 2005. Florida Gardening Series, Volume 3 – Stormscaping: Landscaping to Minimize Wind Damage in Florida. Color Garden Inc. Canton, GA. 168 pp.

How to Stake a Tree Properly (And How Long to Keep It Staked)

   

Ensuring newly planted trees are braced if warranted is considered of paramount importance second only to proper planting and establishment watering. Please read excerpts form the Davey Tree article to learn more about if a tree needs to be braced, and if so how to go about proper bracing.
The new tree you planted is counting on you for enough water, sunlight and nutrients – and it needs a few other elements to succeed, too. A bit of pruning early on can help your tree establish a good shape. And your new tree may need a bit of literal support, like a stake. Though, not all young trees need to be staked. Read on to see if you should stake a new tree. If so, learn some staking trees methods and how long to keep a tree staked.

What You Need to Know About Staking New Trees

While it seems like young trees need extra support, most trees don’t need to be staked. Staking trees that don’t need it can cause the tree to grow fewer roots and develop a weak tree base. Only stake your tree if it needs extra support, protection or help staying anchored.

Should you stake your new tree?

If you properly planted a healthy tree with a sturdy trunk and solid root system, chances are you won’t have to stake it. You also don’t have to stake evergreens, conifers or trees that have branches growing lower to the ground. There are times when you should stake trees, though. .......... Continue Onto Article